The old city of Pune has been synonymous with Wadas. Wada as a structure has constant appearances throughout my walking explorations in Pune. In Pune, there are two types of Wadas: one from the Maratha era and the other from the British times. Wadas constructed during the Maratha period had only one family: ministers, moneylenders, recordkeepers, and lawyers. Rasta Wada is such a Maratha-period mansion. Wadas generally comprise of 3-4 chowks
Vishrambaug Wada - Knowingly or unknowingly, I have visited this Wada numerous times. It’s a place which you can’t miss easily. It is the last Wadas built by the Peshwas. The wada does represent the true nature of its name, Vishrambaug. Vishram means to take a rest. The first time I visited this mansion was in 2017. I was mesmerized by a metal spiral staircase. A small exhibit on Pune’s history was in a section of the wada. Unfortunately, the area is inaccessible due to restoration work that has been happening for a few years. During a walking tour, I understood that this Wada is the youngest. There are three courtyards. The first one was used for administrative purposes. This was the Wada’s entrance, but it is closed now due to repairs. The 2nd courtyard was dedicated to the male members of the household. There were fountains in the last courtyard, and the women used it. The first Sanskrit school was started in Vishrambaug Wada. This Wada was roughly occupied from the 1790s to the 1800s.
Hissar Fort - Now, let’s visit the oldest structure of Pune. Unfortunately, the actual structure is long gone. Currently, a four-storied building is situated in the same place. The structure I am referring to here is a 14th-century fort known as the Hissar Fort. Even though Hissar Fort is non-existent, the original stairs leading up to the place remain. These are the oldest stairs in Pune city, dating back to 1306. It was a military fort built at a height to have an overview of the town. The fort was destroyed long back by Bajirao Peshwa. The reason being, it was higher than Shaniwar Wada. I wish I could see the place by travelling back in the past. One can’t even imagine a fort-like structure in the existing location.
Dixit Wada – This place was occupied by the moneylenders who migrated from Nashik during the Maratha rule. Dixit Wada gained prominence during the rule of Nana Saheb Peshwa. Like any typical Wada, it was a three-chowk Wada. In the basement of the Wada, all the money was kept.
Dixit Wada is a two-storied structure. In Wada–style architecture, rooms are even on the ground floor. Rooms on all four sides usually surround a chowk. Dixit Wada was occupied by one of the wealthiest men in India during the 1730s.
Raste Wada – Frankly, I wasn’t even aware of this place, Rasta Peth, till I came across a walking tour in the area. The walk happened in and around the Raste Wada for the first hour. During that time, I learned that a century-old synagogue exists in the area. To date, Raste Wada is occupied by the Raste family. They came to Pune from Wai during the reign of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. At that time, the living conditions in Pune were not favourable. Hence, there was a need to build a new living complex rose, which gave birth to a five-storied Rasta Wada. It is the last surviving Wada of Pune in its original condition. The Wada has two chowks. It has a blend of Mughal and Maratha style of architecture. Even colonial elements are present. While entering the wooden doors of the Wada, I noticed carvings on them. I was amused that the construction accounted for birds sitting on the windows. Prior permissions are required from the Rasta family even to enter and look inside the Wada. As the organisation with whom I went hadn’t taken the necessary permissions, I could not explore the place much.
Lal Mahal – Lal Mahal no longer exists in its actual form. The present Lal Mahal represents a reconstruction of the original structure, which has been relocated. As per geographical evidence, the original Lal Mahal faced the temple, Kasba Ganpati. I have covered more about the temples of Pune in another blog, “Pune – A Divine Place”. (https://www.eeshasexperience.com/post/pune-a-divine-place).
Lal Mahal was initially known as the Subhedar Wada. The reconstruction of this Wada began in 1732, to be built as a Royal Guest House. Interestingly, the latest entrance built by the municipality used to be the backside of the Wada—where the granary for the Royal kitchen was located. The Wada I found the least appealing during my walking tour day.
Sardar Mazumdar Wada –This was another Wada where the residents were strict about entering and photographing the place. Hence I do not any photos or videos of this place. This Wada was also constructed in the 1700’s. The construction work went on for a span of four years, from 1728-1732. Sardar Adabsaheb Mazumdar occupied this place from 1894 to 1973. He used to maintain records during the Maratha period. This Wada also had three chowks. A museum inside the Wada is open to the public during the Ganpati festival for a few days. I still must visit that museum. Pt. Bhimsen Joshi’s first public performance was held here. The first-ever flag hoisted in Pune was also at Sardar Mazumdar Wada.
Sardar Shitole Wada – This is another Wada which has bitten the dust. The Shitoles were the original inhabitants of Pune. They were police officers during the Maratha period. It was a mixture of three varied styles of architecture: Maratha, Rajput, and European. The original entrance arc of the Wada still exists. But once inside, it’s an entirely different view. A temple from the original plan is still there. The surroundings are now a cluster of residential buildings.
Nana Wada – Nana Wada belonged to Nana Fadnavis, the finance minister during the Maratha rule. This Wada architecture consisted of two central courtyards, of which only one is visible now. Nana Fadnavis was behind renaming the peths or areas of the old Pune city. These peths are named after the 7 days of the week: Somwar, Mangalwar, Buddhwar, Guruwar, Shaniwar and Raviwar. Even this Wada has been restored now.
The basic material used in the Maratha style of Wadas was teakwood. This teak wood came from the Junnar region of Maharashtra. In the British style of Wadas, the wood was replaced by metal. These Wadas were more like chawls, where multiple families reside. An example of this is Dixit Wada. Another forte of the Maratha period was the book bricks. The other materials, such as basalt rock, were transported from Chinchwad. The lime mortar came in from Jejuri. Most of the Wadas I explored were part of the “Royal Wadas of Pune” walk. Pune Heritage Walks conduct this walking tour.
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