Fuzzy Abodes and Comfort

Personally, I love bungalows and residences with up to two stories. Such dwellings are becoming increasingly scarce as the globe shifts towards skyscrapers. Do such houses still exist in Mumbai? Yes, they do. Initially, even I did not believe it until I got a chance to visit these settlements over the last two years. I have already written a blog on this particular topic. (You can read the previous blog here - https://www.eeshasexperience.com/post/mumbai-s-beautiful-colours ). As I get the opportunity to visit comparable settlements, I am documenting my experience again. In this blog, I have written about a community known as the East Indians. They can be considered one of the original inhabitants of Mumbai. The name was given to them by the Britishers to distinguish them from the migrants of Goa and Mangalore (West Indians) who had settled in Mumbai. East Indians were found residing all over Mumbai, even in Thane and Vasai. Today there exist about 70-80 such settlements. A typical house in East India features Portuguese architecture and is painted in vibrant, eye-catching colours. Usually, the lower and upper levels are connected by an exterior wooden staircase.

A Corner House in Marol Village

A few years ago, I had come across some information about Marol but didn't explore it much until one November morning. I stumbled upon an Instagram post advertising a walking tour in the area, which caught my attention. In the beginning, I didn’t pay much attention to the post, but then I realised that this particular place is not that far away from where I reside. I booked the tour instantly. Must say one of the best decisions I had made in haste. As it was during this particular walk that I came to know about the various traditions and cultures that the East Indians follow. Located in the bustling suburb of Andheri lies the quaint and charming Marol Village. It’s within walking distance from the Marol Naka metro station. At the beginning of my walk, I observed a brief prayer taking place at the Village cross. At that moment, I forgot that I was standing in a metropolitan city. Following that, the group on foot moved forward towards the backyard of the host's place. The surroundings were filled with an abundance of verdant vegetation, and a lovely powder blue house was situated at the forefront. This walk was conducted by Ginelle and was organised by the beautiful experiential company called GoHalluHallu. As I had already been on three walks with them, I was eagerly anticipating this one as usual. I felt content because I had the pleasure of savouring delightful East Indian cuisine following my stroll. As the walk progressed, I realised that the streets were narrower than the earlier settlements I had been to.

East Indian Wedding Traditions depicted on a wall

After walking a bit, I came across a wall which depicted the tradition carried out during the wedding ceremony in an East Indian Community. The pictures conveyed a significant amount of information.

St.John - The Evangelist Church,Marol

Then the walking group halted at the place of worship. It was a pious place with a school on one side and a cemetery at the back. There was a vast open space in front of the church. From there, we went to Ginelle’s house for a scrumptious dinner prepared by her grandmother. It was my first opportunity to visit the interior of an East Indian home. The place was filled with warmth and care. As the dusk set in, the neighbours waved at each other, some folks were busy chatting away. The festive season kept everyone busy with Christmas preparations. The village square had a sense of belonging to it, I didn’t feel left out even though I was just a mere outsider. But I had to go back to my world, leaving behind this fuzziness.

A Khotachiwadi House

Khotachiwadi is an East Indian hamlet situated in Girgoan, Mumbai. Visiting this settlement was on my bucket list of walking tours since the time I started exploring Mumbai on foot. I've noticed some amazing photos and videos on my Instagram feed featuring some beautiful, serene houses in Khotachiwadi. At last, this year, luck was on my side; first, I got an opportunity to visit Khotachiwadi at midnight and then at noon as well. Both times, the walk had its own unique flavours. I am glad I experienced the place during nightfall initially. One enters into a world of darkness filled with blessings of light coming from above. On this particular night walk, I had absolutely no idea that I would be visiting the same area within a few months; again, when I first went to the place, it was in December and quite cool outside. It was a pleasant stroll across the narrow winding streets. With Christmas approaching, colourful strings of lights were hung everywhere. Though the walk had an eerie vibe to it, the lights instantly added a vibrant mood. My next visit was on a warm March morning which eventually turned sultry as the day progressed. But was I complaining? Not at all. During the Marol Walk, I got a chance to enjoy a traditional East Dinner, and on this walk, the host served us a mouth-watering breakfast.

I previously wrote about the neighbourhoods of Matharpacady in Mazgoan and Chuim in Khar. Besides these four settlements, there is one more area which I wish to visit since that’s Dharavi Island. A few years ago, I booked a tour to Dharavi Island, but unfortunately, the organizers cancelled it at the last minute. I will visit that place one day, without a doubt.

During the course of these walks, I made a few observations. There is a strong community bond between the residents of these places. The bond between neighbours is as close as that of a family. You can easily peep into the other house; still, everyone feels secure. Although the pathways may appear narrow, passing cars frequently wave at pedestrians. As an outsider, you fall in love with the colourful façade each and every time you pass by. I find myself consistently captivated by the alluring vortex.